Review: @pizza, Edinburgh

@Pizza (or at Pizza) opened along the West End of Princes Street at the end of November last year.  Nestled down the secluded Charlotte Lane, it's USP is to knock out pizzas in precisely 90 seconds. I usually make my own pizza, which obviously takes a hell of a lot longer, but I’ve been suffering from a bad cold for a few weeks and couldn’t face a hot kitchen after a hard day at work.  Eating out it is then.

A friendly waiter popped out from behind the counter to greet us and take us through the concept.  The emphasis was on creating your own pizza, although there were a few stock recipes on there for the indecisive among us. Names included ‘Mean Greens’, ‘Eat Meat Repeat’ and ‘Heartbreaker’ (descriptions in graphic). There was also a dessert pizza which I thought was a horrendous idea.  Our server informed us that you can have as many toppings as you like and to pop back up when we were ready.

The interior was a little canteen-like and uninviting for my taste – the total opposite from the staff it has to be said. It proved comfortable enough and we were soon having our pizzas constructed by the chatty employees.

To their credit, @pizza have a fair offering of craft beers (Paolozzi and a couple from Stewart's) and sodas, as well as Italian wines to wash down the grub with.  I went for the Sicilian lemonade which did what it said on the tin, while Sarah enjoyed a tasty ginger, mint and lime (both £2.25).

All pizzas are £9.50 and you can choose between a sourdough or ancient grain (spelt I believe) base.  I opted for the former with a classic tomato base. There are a few cheese options, including a Scottish mozzarella-style one, but I went for the cheddar/mozza combo.  Now to the toppings… you begin with the ‘veggie’ section where I added grilled red onions and Tinkerbell tomatoes before moving onto the ‘protein’ area.  From there I decided on spicy Italian sausage and roast chicken. I got to the end of the counter and began to examine this super speed pizza oven.  The oblong-shaped pizza disappeared on the conveyor belt and, sure enough, came out a minute and a half later where you can then finish it off with more toppings, flavoured oils and other bits and bobs.  I went for Stilton which was the pizza creator’s favourite, topped off with a drizzle of chilli oil and a smattering of olives.

First impression was that it was pretty small but it was very filling and more than enough.  The base tasted good but was slightly limp it has to be said.  We had also just spent a week in Bologna where we gorged on some pretty damn fine pizzas, so expectations were heightened. Sarah and I really enjoyed the tasty red onions and I loved when the tiny tomatoes burst open in your mouth, making you feel like this was someway healthy.  The meat toppings had enough flavour, if not unspectacular quality and the Stilton was the real highlight.

The problem was that because it wasn’t baked in a piping hot pizza oven the toppings were never going to amalgamate with the dough and the cheese properly to prevent them falling everywhere -  it got a little messy.

At pizza, to their credit, have a few local craft beers (Paolozzi and a couple from Stewart’s) and sodas, as well as Italian wines, to wash down the grub with.  I went for the Sicilian lemonade which did what it said on the tin.

Overall, the service was the strong point here.  The food was good, don’t get me wrong and I can see the concept going down a storm with the lunchtime crowd and kids alike.  I can see this idea working well in Glasgow city centre, but as far as the capital is concerned, it’ll be interesting to see how this business pans out.

Web: atpizza.com/

Phone: (0131) 285 5940

Address: Charlottle Lane, Edinburgh, EH2 4QZ.